Holm Sown: Butterick B5526 Shirt // daisy pima cotton lawn - green // shirt front

Butterick B5526 – my shirt making quest continues

I’ve been on a bit of a shirt making quest recently.  I love all the little elements that go into making them and I like to wear them – so it is a win win for me!  Since I’ve started stocking Vogue, Butterick, McCalls and KwikSew patterns in the shop (alongside a selection of Indie patterns), I’ve been trying to incorporate more of them in to my sewing.  For staple garments such as a shirt there are so many patterns to chose from which is great.  Butterick B5526 is a popular pattern with good reviews so I was keen to give it a try.

Holm Sown: Butterick B5526 Shirt // daisy pima cotton lawn - green // shirt front and sleeves down

 

The pattern

Butterick B5526 is a multi-sized pattern across two envelopes; sizes 6-12 or 14-22.   There are 2 basic styles/fit options all with a two-piece collar (stand and collar piece).  The first is a looser shirt that is un-darted and comes with two hem options and options for pockets and sleeve tabs.  The second is a more fitted shirt with princess seams that has an option for a front ruffle/flounce and a separate button band.  The only features that are missing from a classic shirt is the option for a tower placket on the sleeve, and a back yoke.  For all the versions you get with this pattern I think it is really great value.

Holm Sown: Butterick B5526 shirt sewing pattern

I made View A which is the un-darted shirt with the front breast pockets and long sleeves with roll tabs.  I cut a straight size 16 with the only alteration being to add 1″ to the length of the shirt at the hem.   I had hoped to cut the separate button band from one of the other views but I didn’t have enough fabric, in fact, as it was I had just enough to cut all the pieces I needed.

The fabric

I fell in love with the colour of this fabric as soon as the agent showed it to me – it is listed in the shop as Daisy Pima Cotton Lawn Green.  It is such an unusual shade of green – a dark leafy/olive or a chartreuse green?  It is gorgously soft cotton lawn which is a dream to sew and press.  The print is very similar to Liberty Mitsi and is small white flowers with orange centres and darker green and pale blue leaves.  I think I might have to start stocking it in some of the other colourways as well.

Holm Sown: Butterick B5526 Shirt // daisy pima cotton lawn - green // shirt back

Construction

I sewed the shirt over quite a few sessions.  I like that about shirts, you can break them down in components and tackle each part individually if you want to.  I find it stops me powering ahead and inevitably making a mess of the collar or some topstitching!  I didn’t do anything fancy – all the seams are sewn on my machine and then overlocked.

The only change I made to the construction was in relation to how the sleeve tab was sewn on.  The instructions seemed to imply you’d end up with a bit of raw edge showing so I pressed under a scant 1/4″ at the end and then stitched this down so the raw edge was hidden.  I top-stitched a box and X to hold it in place (similar to a tower placket on a sleeve).

Holm Sown: Butterick B5526 Shirt // daisy pima cotton lawn - green // cuff detail

The collar was sewn using the Grainline method which I have come to prefer as I get a lovely neat finish at the front edge.

I had planned to use some simple mother of pearl buttons but they just didn’t look right.  In the end I found these dark green fish-eye buttons which are just right and were inexpensive.  The pockets have a nice pleat detail and the buttons are simply sewn through the pocket (no button hole).

Holm Sown: Butterick B5526 Shirt // daisy pima cotton lawn - green // pocket detail

Verdict

If you are planning on sewing the sleeve tabs so you can roll the sleeves up you might want to think about using a french seam or flat fell seam for the sleeve since you will see the innards when you roll them up.  The sleeves are a great length for me so if you are shorter (I’m 5’7″) you might want to check the length.  The only thing I’d look to change on a future version would be to drop the chest pockets by 1″ or more as I feel they are sitting too high on me (I prefer the placement on my blue check Grainline Archer).

Holm Sown: Butterick B5526 Shirt // daisy pima cotton lawn - green // shirt front and sleeves rolled up

I’m really happy with how it has turned out and the fit is great.  It is such a great staple shirt style and I’m sure I’ll come back to this version again.  I’m already planning a chambray version – I just need to get my fabric pre-washed.

Total cost: £27.64

Fabric: 1.4m – Daisy Pima Cotton Lawn Green @ £12/m = £16.80

Pattern: Butterick B5526 Misses’ Shirt = £8.25

Buttons: 14 @ £0.06 = £0.84

Notions: Thread & interfacing = £1.75

Save

Save

Save

Save


Save

Follow

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save

Save