Lady Skater // Flowers n Dots jersey // Holm Sown

Lady Skater Dress – versions 1 & 2

I started the first of my Lady Skater dresses last December and then did my usual thing of tossing it to languish in my sewing room with just the hem to do. Leaving things with just the hem to do has become a bad habit of mine, but one that I am really trying hard to break!

The Lady Skater Dress from Kitschy Koo is described as:

This funky yet functional knit dress has a fitted bodice, scooped banded neckline, a curved flared knee-length skirt, and options for trimmed cap sleeves, or banded ¾ length sleeves or long sleeves. It’s designed to flatter the figure with a waistline that hits at the natural waist and a skirt that gently skims over the lower waist and hips.

Just to note, this pattern is only available as a PDF. For my first version I used a navy blue cotton interlock. This interlock is a bit thicker than a standard jersey fabric, and more stable with less stretch. My measurements put me between size 5 and 6, so I went with the 5 at the shoulders and bust and graded out to the 6 at the waist. I also added 2 inches to the skirt length by cutting and spreading the pattern (rather than just adding it to the bottom hem as I didn’t want to make the skirt any fuller).

Lady Skater // navy interlock // Holm Sown

The pattern comes with full step-by-step colour illustrated instructions that make it easy to sew up. If you’ve not sewn with stretchy fabric before then there are lots of helpful tips to help you along. On this version I chose not to top-stitch the neckband seam allowance down (which in hindsight was a mistake, and something I should probably go back and do). I finished the hem in my preferred way – overlocked the edge, pressed the hem up, used ¼ inch fusible tape to hold in place and stabilise, and then used a twin ball-point needle to finish.

Because it took me so long to finish, the dress is actually a little big for me now. It is most noticeable in the fit around the neck and shoulders where I feel that it is too wide. The bodice isn’t fitted like it is meant to be, and although I wear a belt with it anyway, it would look better a bit tighter. Perhaps when I go back to finish the neckline I should take in the side seams a little?

My big requirement for clothing this autumn/winter is that it can be layered so that I can have at least 2 layers of long-sleeves on (the shop is freezing!). It is such an easy and comfy dress to wear I thought I’d make up another one.

Lady Skater // Flowers n' Dots Lillestoff jersey // side view // Holm Sown

For my second version I used some gorgeously soft organic cotton jersey from Lillestoff that we have in the shop here (as well as lots of other lovely options).

Flowers n Dots organic jersey from Lillestoff // Holm Sown online shop

The colours are perfect for autumn – a lovely rich purple with lighter purple and yellow flowers. This fabric has much better stretch and recovery than the interlock which has resulted in a much better fitting dress.

Lady Skater // Flowers n' Dots Lillestoff jersey // back view // Holm Sown

I cut a straight size 5 all over this time and left the skirt length as originally drafted. I also top-stitched the neck band seam allowance in place as instructed which keeps it nicely tucked away. I sewed all the seams on my regular machine first using a walking foot and the lightning bolt stitch. While you can go straight to the overlocker with jersey, I find that sewing the seams first makes sure everything stays nicely aligned. It is an extra step but I think it is well worth it. The hem was finished with a twin needle.

Lady Skater // Flowers n' Dots Lillestoff jersey // front // Holm Sown

Would I make it again? I am tempted to make another one simply because it is so easy, comfy and warm to wear.  I might also try making a tee from it by lengthening the bodice.

Check out these great versions: Scruffy Badger | Lladybird | Idle Fancy

Version 1: Total cost: £26.34

  • Fabric: 2m of navy interlock £17.64
  • Pattern: Lady Skater PDF pattern by Kitchy Koo £7.20
  • Size made: combination of 5 & 6, with 2″ added to the skirt length
  • Notions: ¼ inch clear elastic (~£1.50), thread*, and twin ball-point needle* (optional)
  • (*I haven’t costed in the thread and needles as I count them as standard items in my sewing kit)

Version 2: total cost: £32.10

  • Fabric: 1.75m of organic jersey by Lillestoff £30.60
  • Pattern: Lady Skater by Kitchy Koo £0 (used before)
  • Size made: size 5 with no alterations
  • Notions: ¼ inch clear elastic (~£1.50), thread*, and twin ball-point needle* (optional)

 

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