Vogue 9149 is a classic, feminine dress with a simple bodice with front and back waist darts, and a circle skirt (maybe 3/4). It is rated Easy. What I really love about this pattern is that it is such a great blank canvas that you can then go on to customise with a different neckline, or by adding a different skirt. It even has a sleeve drafted with it, and is one of their Custom Fit patterns that comes with cup-sized bodice options. Did you know that nearly all patterns are drafted for a b-cup? So if you’ve been struggling to get your handmade clothes to fit and you have a larger bust, look for patterns with cup-sized pieces and you should end up with much better results.
I made a toile before cutting in to my fabric; I ended up using the c-cup front bodice pattern piece, and cut a size 14 bodice with The side seams I graded from a 14 at the underarm to the 16 at the waist. This meant I cut the skirt as a 16.
The fabric is the most beautiful cotton poplin from the shop. It has such a stunning print of bright red poppies on a background of cream and black. The bodice is lined with a lightweight cotton voile is pale grey.
The only note I have on the construction is to take your time sewing those darts. They are quite wide and they provide all the bust shaping. To avoid a pointy dart tip try and taper your sewing at the very end so that the last few stitches are on the edge of the fabric. Take the time to press it well using a tailors ham to shape it. Mine are still a bit pointy but the print hides them!
I finished the hem with bias binding as I think this is an easier and neater method than double folding it. The first pass was done on the machine and then I hand catchstitched it for an invisible finish.
Once you’ve spent the time fitting a classic dress style like this you really can use the pattern over and over again. This style works well as a party dress, something special to wear to a wedding, or as a really pretty summer frock.
You could also try the Sew Over It Betty Dress which is very similar and has a dipped v-back, more or a 50’s bateau neckline, and a full circle skirt. It works well in a range of fabrics. You could use something like a rayon/viscose or a crepe for a more drapey look. A pattern with a classic style like this can be used over again.
Total cost: £47.15
Fabric – Red Poppy Cotton Poplin 2.2m @ £12/m = £26.40
Fabric – Grey Cotton Voile (lining) 0.75m @ £5/m = £3.75
Pattern – Vogue V9149 = £13.00
Notions – 22″ concealed zip; thread; bias binding = £4.00